This is our story...

Being both motorcycle riders with a love for travelling, we talked about touring the world on bikes about two years ago.

After looking into logistics/constraints and places we wanted to explore, we decided to tour the Americas from Alaska, USA to Ushuaia, Argentina.

We also wanted to have the same motorcycle to simplify maintenance, and find something we would both feel comfortable riding. We ended up chosing the Suzuki V-Strom 650, a 07' grey one for Chad and a 05' red one for Caroline.

We left for our journey on 6/14/09 from Washington, DC and arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina on 4/19/10. Click here and read below to see what it took us to make it to Ushuaia.

On 6/9/10, we flew back to the United States almost exactly a year after we had left for this journey.


Thursday, September 17, 2009

Ketchikan, our last port of call

The claim of fame of this little community established by the Tlingit Indians is to be the "Salmon Capital" of the world. The natives used to spend their summer there to fish and nowadays, in a more modern way, the town has 11 canneries from where salmon gets shipped to all over the US and beyond. This was going to be our last port of call in Alaska so we were a little nostalgic as we disembarked the ship.

Learning how to interpret Totem Poles

As we took a bus to the nearby Saxman Native Village, we started noticing the Totem Poles lined up on some corners in town. The Ketchikan area has the highest concentration of Totem Poles, about 80 of them, and we would soon get to see a few of them and learn their stories. Totem Poles are not objects of worship as we thought: they serve different purposes in the native culture, like sharing what clan you belong to, a story, honor a dead, shame someone who has not paid a debt... As we entered the Totem Pole Park, we were told the story of some of these poles and how each of them can only be topped by a living thing, like a person or an animal. We were surprised to see that one had Abraham Lincoln on it, with very short legs. Why? Because the carving was done back in the days, based on a picture of Lincoln from knees up and the artist copied exactly what he was given. Another pole was a shame pole for Mr. Skagway who never paid his debt to the village; since the pole of shame gets burned only once the debt is paid and that one never was, it will be there forever. We had a lot of fun listening to these stories and connecting the bright wooden carved animals, spirits and humans to the story they reflected.

An extraordinary sight in Ketchikan: the sun

As we headed back to town, our guide pointed to our attention that we were particularly lucky that day as there was sunshine. It rains about 260 days of the year here and that does not count drizzle days: they call it “liquid sunshine” in a very optimistic way. Since we were that lucky, we went for a walking tour in town, getting down the boardwalk and observing the salmon jump upstream in Salmon Creek. It was quite hypnotizing to see all these fish jump up the small rapids. There was againlots of Pink Salmon and the water was boiling with fish. That's when the boys and girl decided to split: Chad and Stan would go and cast the line to play some catch and release with the Salmon (tough game as you can see in the picture) while Caroline decided to explore the hills of Ketchikan to get a good view of the surrounding islands. Before going our separate ways, we all went for a short "cultural" stop at Dolly's house, the still standing house of pleasure in town managed by Dolly, until 1953 when prostitution became illegal in Alaska. Apparently, this is a big and important piece of the Gold Rush "culture" here where odds are good for women (given the number of men), but apparently the goods are odd!

We all had a great time in Ketchikan, exploring town or fishing on the dock and were quite tired after this full day of activities. We had our last look from the upper deck as the ship left, hoping that we would have another chance to come back here and enjoy more of the Alaskan wilderness and delicious fish.

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